Day 5 - Cizur Menor to Lorca (32.5 km)

Today was perfect. It was the sort of day I had imagined for The Camino.

I set out early - around 7.30am - with a happy spirit and loads of energy (which was as well as I had a big day ahead and after the first few hours it was hot and stayed that way). Back to earlier in the day. Like most hikers, after a quick wash and dressing, the day starts with the ritual repacking of the pack, which virtually everyone seems to do and takes me about half an hour. I'm carrying this thing on my back so I need to get things just where I want them (e.g.heavy toiletries bag back down towards the bottom and rain gear near the top, though I've barely spotted a cloud since I began).

Rosarii and I set out to walk the first half hour or so together before I would pick up my pace to reach Lorca today. Said goodbye to Patrick (not a morning person) who was still contemplating the day. I doubt I will see either again on The Camino as they are walking for one and two weeks respectively. But as both have plans for trips to Sydney to visit family, hopefully our paths will cross again.

Today could not have been more unlike yesterday. The way was mostly stone paths, through varied landscapes, much of it unsheltered, and half a dozen small unspoiled villages (most from 14th century), postcards at every turn. It was hard going at times - three very steep rises - though the descents more leisurely than on earlier days so no knee damage so far! My walking poles have been fantastic. I'm thinking of naming each of them, they have been such good friends to me. I'm also thinking of naming my backpack! We've got a love / hate thing going at the moment. It's dear to me as it has everything I need - and perhaps a few things I don't, though I won't know what until the end. But I can only imagine how fresh I'd feel at day's end if I hadn't carried that 10 kilos. So I figure it's all in my attitude. Once I name it, it will be a friend and we'll be relying on each other to get to our destination. I feel like Tom Hanks and Wilson the basketball. If that means nothing to you, just google it and you'll see what I mean. Anyway, if and when I name my poles and pack, of course I'll let you know.

After leaving Rosarii, I walked the next two hours on my own, passing and being passed by other pilgrims and locals - Hola, Buenos Dias, Bueno Camino. I caught up to a young French Canadian Eric, whom I'd first met making the steep descent through the forest on the Spanish side of The Pyrenees. He and I and Marcel from The Netherlands walked together until around lunchtime. This was Marcel's second time on The Camino and, as with the first, he hopes to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela. I'd judge he's about 40 years old. His first Camino was 20 years ago. He said he'd always wanted to do it again, and here he is. We left Marcel at the town of Puenta La Reina about 20 kms from our start and I then left Eric a few villages on. So the last two hours I was on my own again and didn't see another pilgrim the whole time, though there were no doubt some out of sight behind me or over the next rise. I felt brave and strong today even when I took a wrong turn, adding an extra km to my walk. The path is well sign-posted with the Camino symbol of a yellow shell on blue background, but you need to watch out for them, especially when there are no other pilgrims in sight. I realised I hadn't seen a sign for a while so turned back. Around 4pm I arrived in Lorca to find a lovely Albergue with a friendly young host. I'm sitting in the cafe enjoying a cafe con leche (like a latte). He is fascinated by my iPad. I will have dinner here tonight - special pilgrims menu usually around 10 euro - with a salad to start and then a Spanish omelette or pasta. The food has mostly been great - and I'm always hungry!

So much for these posts getting shorter, but before I sign off firstly a medical update. Tired feet, naturally, but no blisters so far and vigilant with the preventative measures. My collar bone is bruised on both sides, so need to watch that and maybe adjust my pack. Heat rash on my legs, which first appeared when I was training over summer for the Coastrek, has re-appeared with a vengeance today. Not surprising as it was a long walk and hot! On that score, I have an interesting tan developing. As I'm walking in the same direction every day, my left side is constantly in the sun. Sunscreen doesn't stay on for long in the heat, so I've taken to using 30+ lip balm on my face and hands, which seems to work.

Last thing - thank you so much for your comments. If you'd like to comment under your own name rather than Anonymous, under Choose an Identity, just select the Name/URL option. Just type in your name as you want it to appear. Ignore the URL as it's optional.

Also I've had a few lovely messages which don't appear on the blog as coments, but arrived as emails to me with a link to the blog. So if you don't see your comments, next time just use Post a Comment and add your name using the Name/URL option. Not sure where the link instruction appears but just ignore that as I think it's intended if you want to send a link to another blog. Hope that's helpful rather than confusing!

Until next time, thanks for sharing the Camino with me. Muchas gracias. J x

Day 4 - Larrasoana to Cizur Menor (19 km)

Day 4 started beautifully but did not unfold as I'd imagined. The Camino had other plans for me.

Today I'd hoped to walk well past Pamplona to begin the first of many long days of walking if I am to reach Santiago de Compostela within the time I've allowed. The first few hours were gentle and relaxed - much of it walking with Patrick from Wales or Rosarii from Ireland, both I'd met on the first day - but before long I was on the outskirts of Pamplona. I was in two minds as i entered the city proper but decided to visit the cathedral and the plaza and spend a little time walking around the old city ... and to buy my Spanish sim card so I can continue to stay in touch on the go.

The old city of Pamplona is beautiful, there is no doubt. But as time went on the crowds and noise did not sit well and, for the first time on The Camino, I felt stress and a sense of being overwhelmed by time and distance. I'd felt at home on the path as I'd made my way through the small quiet Basque villages. Not so here.

I decided to quickly buy my sim card and continue on out of Pamplona and try to cover another 15 km or more before unloading my pack for the day. I found the Orange store quickly ... and then spent the next 90 minutes waiting to be served and concluding the transaction. Judging by the forms of ID required (though not my pilgrim's passport), and the verification procedures and phone calls, you'd have thought I was on some sort of criminal watch list. The lesson here was patience ... and I was not doing well.

By the time I left, stressed and hungry, it was just after 2pm. Just in time for the cafe doors to close and shutters to come down for the afternoon's siesta. On my way out of Pamplona I found a cafe open and, with a big slice of cold Spanish omelette on board, I continued.

Around 3pm with the temperature still at 29 degrees, I was coming up the hill to Cizur Menor. I knew there was an Albergue there but I would have preferred a hotel tonight to cocoon myself in my own room and get my head and heart together for tomorrow. But that would mean another 3 hours or so today to the nearest village with a private hotel rather than a pilgrims Albergue.

I decided to take a look at the Albergue in Cizur Menor and then decide whether to walk on. Following the signs with the Camino symbol, I soon found the old stone building set in tranquil gardens, dotted with outdoor tables and chairs. La Senora was welcoming and let me know about the facilities - including a washing machine and dryer. Well, the place did look nice, the garden was lovely and at least I could get my clothes clean and dry, ready for a fresh start tomorrow.

I asked La Señora if Rosarii Murphy was here as she'd planned - Patrick was staying in Pamplona. When I'd left them earlier in the day, first Patrick and then Rosarii a while later, I hadn't expected I'd see either of them again on The Camino.

When La Senora confirmed that Rosarii was already here, my spirits lifted - I felt in need of a friendly face. She directed me to room 2 (another dormitory room but clean, bright and modern - a far cry from last night). As I called out hi to Rosarii, another voice answered. And there was Patrick lying in one of the lower bunks. For some reason he too ended up not in Pamplona but in Cizur Menor. And so we three found ourselves together again. I felt a happy sense of relief to be able to unburden myself of my heavy heart and my heavy pack and share the remainder of the afternoon and evening with my amigos de Camino.

I have no idea what will unfold over the coming weeks, where I'll get to and by when. But last night at dinner, with we three and others, Patrick said he believes the saying that The Camino takes care of us and finds the way. And so it does.

J x

Day 3 - Burguete to Larrasoana (24 km)

Day 3 and it´s sunny and hot. A great day´s walk with plenty of up and down but mostly through forests. Happy to stay here in Larrasoana as the next accommodation is Pamplona, 13 kms away.  I´m looking forward to walking through the old city, but don´t fancy staying the night so plan to go well past there tomorrow.  I don´t think I´m ready for the hustle and bustle of a big city, when the Basque countryside and villages are so peaceful.

I´m staying at the municipal Albergue which accommodates about 60 pilrgims. What a difference a day makes. From the sublime last night (a charming room in Hemingway´s hotel) to the not so sublime tonight (a mixed dormitory of 9 bunk beds).  I´d rate the chances of the snoring comp pretty high tonight, but as I was the third person to arrive today I had my choice of bunks, so managed to get a top one in the hope of avoiding a foot in the face in the middle of the night.

No option to upload photos on the blog, as there is no wi fi and I´m using the albergue´s computer (40 minutes for 2 Euor), so thought I´d take care of some housekeeping.

Firstly, a special message for Naomi B. I know you were concerned (mortified, actually) that I was only bringing 4 pairs of knickers so I want to assure you that my afternoon washing of the smalls regime is working well.  So well in fact, that I´m wondering if I have brought 2 too many pairs! ... Kidding.

Secondly, thank you, thank you, to those who´ve posted comments on my blog.  I get such a thrill when I check my emails and see that there´s a new comment. It´s great to know someone is out there. It´s easy to do so would love to hear your news or receive your messages. Hope you are all travelling well with whatever is going on at home in the Camino of life!

Finally, a message to my walking buddies. Things are going well so far, albeit it´s only Day 3 but there´s no doubt all that practice is helping me along the way.  And, Gemma, carrying that pack on my hips all day with no ill effects so far, our body balance and pump classes are definitely worth the effort.  Effie is right, it´s all about the core! I´m even doing the odd downward dog and and other yoga stretches to keep things roughly where they need to be.  Though I don´t imagine I´ll be doing those tonight in the company of my 17 room mates.

As for tomorrow, I´m off to somewhere beyond Pamplona.

Adios amigos.  J. x

Day 2 - Orisson to Burguete (23 km)

Hola from Spain

Another glorious day. The remaining ascent over The Pyrenees was relatively easy and the scenery stunning. The descent through the woods was steep so slowly, slowly keen to avoid a fall but walking through the forest was cool and tranquil ... so why hurry? Only my second day and already I feel time is slowing down. My timetable is becoming less important as I struggle to find a reason to rush through. No doubt there will be plenty of stages less picturesque that I may want to pass through quickly but, for now, I'm taking my time.

I arrived at Roncesvalles, the usual first pilgrim stop in Spain, but continued on for another 3km to Burguete as I'd read it was a more beautiful village ... And so it is. No albergues or refugios here but a few charming hotels. I'm in a delightful room in Hotel Burguete where Hemingway stayed in his visits to Pamplona and surrounds. I'm happy to have a beautiful room to myself. Last night at the Albergue Orisson was great but not much sleep after 4am. Once woken by two of my room mates who could take snoring to competition level, I did not have any luck getting back to sleep.

Apart from the wonderful scenery, another observation is that I am yet to meet an Australian in The Camino. No doubt I will but so far mostly Europeans and Americans. Having said that I spent much of the morning walking with Patrick, an architect from Wales. His wife is Australian - from Northbridge, just down the road from Crows Nest. When they first married they spent some time living in Sydney, in Waverton - down the road in the other direction! And - this is amazing, Peter and Pam - the daughter of the family who run Lake Barrine cafe up on The Tableland is his wife's best friend. He told of ringing them the night of the cyclone early in the year to make sure they were safe. To think we were there for breakfast just a few months ago when Rosanne and I visited.

Before I sign off for today a word about the technology. Sorry if you have emailed me and not received a reply. I seem to be able to receive but not send. Won't be able to buy a Spanish sim card until Pamplona though, Rosanne, that Orange France one you gave me still picking up 3G so maybe it will keep working in Spain! But sending emails still quite random.

And hi Pat at chez Max and Zoe. Thank you for your lovely email. Tried to reply from public Internet at Roncesvalles earlier today but no idea if it went. Can you email or text to let me know if you received it? If you did, apologies if it appeared that, in immersing myself in local culture, English has become my second language. In my defence, I'm all for individuality and cultural diversity, but I think there's a lot to be said for an international uniform standard when it comes to keyboards.

Buenos tardes. Adios ... for now. J x

Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson (10 km)

Though I'd decided to walk only to Orisson on this first day, I was up early and eager to start. After a huge breakfast of jambon, fromage, freshly baked bread, blackberry jam and v strong coffee, I strolled around the village, found a patisserie and made my way back to the pensione to collect my pack and poles, jambon and fromage baguette for lunch tucked under my arm. Are you sensing a pattern here? Walking a very long way is an excellent excuse for eating lots of great food!

By 11.45 I'm at Albergue Orisson, perched on side of the mountain with views magnifique. The distance is quoted as 8 miles or 12 kms though it didn't seem that far. The weather is perfect and I'm happy to rest a while. Though it's only been a little over two hours walking, it was steep and surely the hardest 2 hours I've done with a 10kg pack. Speaking of which I notice people walking with v small packs indeed. First I feel my efforts at traveling light have hardly been as successful as I imagined. But I soon realise that they have sent their luggage on and carrying daypacks. This option was mentioned at the pilgrim centre in SJPP but the thought of parting with my pack did not sit well. I feel connected to it already after months of preparation. All my possessions for the next 30 or so days are in that pack. It's my constant companion.

So here at Orisson well before noon and immediately I consider continuing on to Roncesvalles after all. Though the sun is strong, I feel I can make it. I decide to sit at Orisson for a short while and contemplate. It's so beautiful up here and I've already met an interesting couple whose company I can enjoy this afternoon and over dinner tonight. The Albergue is picturesque and welcoming. So why am I thinking of rushing on - and risking overdoing things on my very first day? I reflect it's likely only ego that's tempting me to continue on to Roncesvalles today when I could stay and enjoy this magical place. And, well rested, I am confident I will make up the time and distance in the coming days.

Decision made, I register at the Albergue, get my passport stamped, choose a bottom bunk bed in a lovely and bright 6-bed room overlooking the valley and begin what I imagine will be my late afternoon routine for the next month. I hit the shower - the token gives you 5 minutes - wash out my knickers and sock liners, and hang them in the sun to dry (the rest of my clothes from today will need to last a lot longer than a day before they'll be washed). Chores done, I head downstairs, and enjoy a coffee with Debbie and Geoff from North Carolina.

All in all, a great start to my Camino. J x

P.S. I took quite a few photos on my camera on the way up here today but haven't transferred them yet. Also took one of the view from Albergue Orisson using my iPad. I think I've uploaded it with this entry but I can't preview with this app, so maybe not.

P.P.S. You may be pleased to learn that I expect my blog entries will be much shorter from now on. I don't imagine I'll have as much time on my hands when full day walking begins tomorrow.

Planes, trains, more trains ...

... And a change of plan.

It's just after 10pm and I'm sitting up in my pensione bed looking out over St Jean Pied de Port, the starting point of my Camino.

It's been quite a day to get here having left London early this morning on the Eurostar. But before that, I enjoyed a lovely 24 hours with family in London with the Coopers (Cathy, Tony, Georgia and Adam) and with Mike, Bev, Bec, Amanda and Laura who arrived back from their week in The Cotswolds in time to send me off. And to help keep me awake yesterday they invited me to their Buckingham Palace tour which as far as the girls were concerned was really about seeing Kate Windsor's (née Middleton) wedding dress which has been on display this summer. So the afternoon was a big success followed by a lovely dinner and off to bed. After a good night's sleep the worst of jet lag was behind me (just as well as it turns out) and I made it to St Pancras station to board the Eurostar at 6.50am.

Eurostar to Gare du Nord, cross town on Metro 4 to Montparnasse, TGV to Bayonne followed by one carriage local train to SJPP where I arrived just after 7.30 tonight.

My plan was to have Sunday here in SJPP to rest and get my bearings and set out on Monday morning. As I made my way to the Pilgrims' welcome centre to get my pilgrim's passport, I was still in two minds whether to make the 28km Pyrenees crossing in one day on my first day's walking or stop at the only Refugio between here and there at Orisson which is about 12 kms up the mountain. I thought I'd leave early enough on Monday to go all the way to Roncesvalles and see how I was traveling by the time I got to Orisson and make my decision then. Seemed like a good plan to me.

The volunteers at the welcome centre were busy. There was a lot of talk about the mountain crossing and telling the new 'pilgrims' that if they want to leave in the next day or two they had some decisions to make. I was in a queue of about a dozen and curious to find out what all the fuss was about. By the time my turn came, it turns out there were no beds left at Orisson for Monday night so you must decide before you leave SJPP or you have to keep going. If you get to Orisson without a bed or tent booked they bring you back to SJPP by car - no arguments. So I asked about Sunday night to find there were two beds left - I grabbed one.

So no rest day for me tomorrow but I am excited to start. Happy with the outcome as the forecast is for warm and sunny days so it will be a tough climb.

Seems that the lessons of The Camino are starting already. Let go of expectations and expect the unexpected.

So spare a thought for me trudging up that mountain tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on.

J x

Within walking distance

'Everywhere is within walking distance, if you have the time.'

This is my last post before I leave Sydney on Thursday to make my way to London and then on to St Jean Pied de Port to begin my Camino. In a week from now, if all goes well, I'll be on Day 1, making my way across The Pyrenees.

Thank you to everyone for your encouragement and good wishes. And for those who've given me notes and mementos to carry with me, I'll keep them safe and take them with me to the end - wherever that turns out to be.   Jenny x

P.S.  If you're looking for a challenge in 2012 - why not sign up for the 50km or 100km Coastrek 2012.  Registrations open this Wednesday 21 September.  My sister Pam and I will be going for the 100 again.  Maybe we'll see you on the trail. Click here for Coastrek website

Happy feet

If you've never had a problem with your feet - and you're not planning to put them to excessive use, probably no need to read on.

On the other hand, if you're planning on doing a lot of walking, or any endurance activity involving your feet, a trip to the podiatrist could be worth the time, particularly if you experience pain in your feet or shins from time to time.

When I first started thinking about walking the 100km Coastrek, I couldn't walk more than about 10kms without pain in the ball of my right foot, and up the side of my right leg. My podiatrist, Rebecca, has been a great help - from diagnosing the cause of the metatarsal joint pain and shin splints, building my orthotics and adjusting them along the way, writing reports for Athlete's Foot to help choose the right footwear - and 'nurturing' 3 new toenails after the original ones had bailed a few weeks after the Coastrek. 

I had my last appointment this morning for a final check up. The verdict.  My feet got the thumbs up!  Big thank you to Rebecca and Jane at Palin Podiatry in Crows Nest. I expect I'll see you very soon after my return.

J.

Testing New Blogger App

Hi all

The countdown is on. Ten days 'til I leave Sydney and two weeks from today I'll be walking. Hopefully by the afternoon of Monday 26th I'll have had a great start and made it over The Pyrenees in one piece.

But back to today. Just in time Google has released a new Blogger app for iPad which is said to make blogging on the go very easy particularly uploading photos from iPad to blog without going via a web album. Ok, sorry, now I'm sounding a bit too nerdy for my own liking! So this is a test. And if I can do it first time then it must be good.

Here goes. Whose photo to upload? Oh, I know!

Zoe

Max