Day 4 - Larrasoana to Cizur Menor (19 km)

Day 4 started beautifully but did not unfold as I'd imagined. The Camino had other plans for me.

Today I'd hoped to walk well past Pamplona to begin the first of many long days of walking if I am to reach Santiago de Compostela within the time I've allowed. The first few hours were gentle and relaxed - much of it walking with Patrick from Wales or Rosarii from Ireland, both I'd met on the first day - but before long I was on the outskirts of Pamplona. I was in two minds as i entered the city proper but decided to visit the cathedral and the plaza and spend a little time walking around the old city ... and to buy my Spanish sim card so I can continue to stay in touch on the go.

The old city of Pamplona is beautiful, there is no doubt. But as time went on the crowds and noise did not sit well and, for the first time on The Camino, I felt stress and a sense of being overwhelmed by time and distance. I'd felt at home on the path as I'd made my way through the small quiet Basque villages. Not so here.

I decided to quickly buy my sim card and continue on out of Pamplona and try to cover another 15 km or more before unloading my pack for the day. I found the Orange store quickly ... and then spent the next 90 minutes waiting to be served and concluding the transaction. Judging by the forms of ID required (though not my pilgrim's passport), and the verification procedures and phone calls, you'd have thought I was on some sort of criminal watch list. The lesson here was patience ... and I was not doing well.

By the time I left, stressed and hungry, it was just after 2pm. Just in time for the cafe doors to close and shutters to come down for the afternoon's siesta. On my way out of Pamplona I found a cafe open and, with a big slice of cold Spanish omelette on board, I continued.

Around 3pm with the temperature still at 29 degrees, I was coming up the hill to Cizur Menor. I knew there was an Albergue there but I would have preferred a hotel tonight to cocoon myself in my own room and get my head and heart together for tomorrow. But that would mean another 3 hours or so today to the nearest village with a private hotel rather than a pilgrims Albergue.

I decided to take a look at the Albergue in Cizur Menor and then decide whether to walk on. Following the signs with the Camino symbol, I soon found the old stone building set in tranquil gardens, dotted with outdoor tables and chairs. La Senora was welcoming and let me know about the facilities - including a washing machine and dryer. Well, the place did look nice, the garden was lovely and at least I could get my clothes clean and dry, ready for a fresh start tomorrow.

I asked La Señora if Rosarii Murphy was here as she'd planned - Patrick was staying in Pamplona. When I'd left them earlier in the day, first Patrick and then Rosarii a while later, I hadn't expected I'd see either of them again on The Camino.

When La Senora confirmed that Rosarii was already here, my spirits lifted - I felt in need of a friendly face. She directed me to room 2 (another dormitory room but clean, bright and modern - a far cry from last night). As I called out hi to Rosarii, another voice answered. And there was Patrick lying in one of the lower bunks. For some reason he too ended up not in Pamplona but in Cizur Menor. And so we three found ourselves together again. I felt a happy sense of relief to be able to unburden myself of my heavy heart and my heavy pack and share the remainder of the afternoon and evening with my amigos de Camino.

I have no idea what will unfold over the coming weeks, where I'll get to and by when. But last night at dinner, with we three and others, Patrick said he believes the saying that The Camino takes care of us and finds the way. And so it does.

J x