Leaving San Juan, I head off along a delightful path through oak and pine woods that drops down to the peaceful valley of the Rio Vena before crossing the Sierra Atapuerca. Things were off to a good start before changing as dramatically as the landscape.
About 6 km on I am approaching the small town of Atapuerca, site of an important archaeological dig and reminiscent of the dry landscape I'd associate with Mexico. As I near the town I am suddenly flanked by fields of dying or dead sunflowers, still resolutely facing the sun but desperately in need of rain, something this area has not seen for some time, I'd guess. There's something sad but noble about their defiant stance.
A quick rest stop with time for a cold orange juice, and it's time to move on. I have a choice to make here, a faster route but with more road than path or the original pilgrims path through more remote and natural terrain. Of course, nature lover that I am, I chose the latter.
About a kilometre along, the sun hotter by the minute, I take a look behind me in the hope of seeing that familiar shape of walker and backpack, mindful that I haven't seen anyone ahead or behind me since that stop in Atapuerca. Oh well, that's fine. I've walked many kilometres on my own.
As I ascend a lonely dry and rocky path, I notice the menacing barbed wire fence on my left and the first of many red and white emphatic warning signs - something forbidding about a military zone. In a sudden flashback, I recall a list of tips seen posted at an Albergue in the first days of my walk. The first that caught my attention on that day was 'Remain calm if approached by a wild dog.' Nothing more, just that. I wondered for how long one would need to remain calm before the threat abated.
The other even more disconcerting note of advice was 'Be careful when passing military zones.'. Ok. Anything you'd like to add to that? And now here I was, not another soul in sight, passing a military zone. So, be careful of what exactly? Stray bullets, a sniper attack. I'd found this terribly amusing a few days ago. Not so much now. Oh well, I'll have passed by soon enough - or, as it turned out, some 4 km and an hour later.
To make matters worse, I was in desperate need of a nature stop and with no-one in sight it should have been the perfect opportunity. But I was hardly going to stop for a pee! Talk about a sitting target.
So I strolled on (fairly briskly) trying to ignore the barbed wire and frequent warning signs until in a moment of defiance I decided to take a photo. When the barbed wire finally ended, though the lunar like landscape continued, I found myself wondering whether 'they, those unseen beyond the barbed wire' also had a list of tips. And whether the list included 'Be careful not to shoot the pilgrims.'
Part Three next. J x
1 comment:
Goodness! That sounds a bit scary!
I'm predicting that part 3 includes a night in a comfy and peaceful bed in Burgos?
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