Day 9 - Azofra to Viloria de la Rioja (30 km)

A most extraordinary day. I am sure I can't do it justice, but will do my best to explain. As I begin this update, it's around 5.30 in the afternoon and it's been a long day's walk, cool in the first few hours, but again a hot afternoon. I am sitting at the dining table of Acacio y Orietta in Viloria de la Rioja, not at all where I expected to be when I started out this morning.

Having slept well in Azofra last night (hallelujah), I started around 8, a little later than in recent days. The morning walk of 15 km to Santa Domingo de Calzada provided just one opportunity for a 'coffee break' at Ciruena, 10 km in to the day's journey. I was unconcerned about the time as I had an idea I would probably stay in the village of Granon, 24 km from my starting point. While I had thought to keep up my pace of the last few days and cover around 30 km, I'd read and heard about the Albergue in the old monastery in Granon. Despite the shorter distance, I felt I 'should' stop there. But I'm getting too soon to that part of the story.

Along the way so many moments, but the most lovely was watching a sheep farmer / shepherd and his three lean, beautiful and familiar border collies rounding his flock. As each completed their part of the work, one by one they went to their master and lay down at his feet, awaiting his next direction. And a few moments later, the four strolled off, with the flock following. I hope the photos give you the idea.

A few hours later, a stop for lunch, a 'shoes and socks off' break and a short stroll around the old city precinct of Santa Domingo de Calzada. Another 8 or 9 km would bring me to Granon and the Albergue in the former monastery on the upper floor of the church. The Albergue accommodates 40 pilgrims sleeping on the floor with mats provided and a communal dinner is held each night, one floor up. I looked inside and it was indeed charming (and pleased to have taken some photos) but I felt conflicted. I would have happily walked on today, though was reluctant to miss this experience. But I was hesitant. I decided to sit in the grounds and wait for the right choice to come to me. Just a few minutes later my confusion cleared. It occurred to me that this may be one of those times when the idea of something is romantic and appealing - and it becomes even more so in the re-telling. But the truth was that tonight I didn't want to sleep with just a one inch mattress between me and the floor, in a small room with little ventilation, alongside 39 others. Though I retained a nagging feeling that perhaps I was missing out on something special, I decided to walk on.

About 4 km later I came to the next town, Redecilla del Camino, a nice enough town with a spacious and comfortable Albergue. Though by then I was tired, the sun still searing, I felt I didn't want to stay. I saw that Viloria de la Rioja was another 3-4 km, with one small and private Refugio with just 10 beds - the only option for accommodation. By mid to late afternoon most walkers have arrived at their final stop for the day, so was concerned that I would walk on and not find a bed. For first time, I turned on the global roaming and phoned the Refugio. Yes I could come, they had only two others there so far. I told the man, who thankfully spoke English, that I would be there soon after 4.

Not knowing what to expect from this tiny village, with not so much as a shop, I arrived tired and dusty. Nothing could be more unexpected than the magical place and hosts that I've stumbled upon. The gentleman I spoke to on the phone, Acacio, greeted me 'Welcome, Jenny'. Accustomed to producing passport (both national and pilfrim's) and payment for the night, I started to retrieve my money purse. He put a gentle hand on my arm, took my walking poles, helped me to unload my pack and said 'let me show you where your bed and the showers are, we'll get to that later. You must be tired.' As I walked through what I later learned was this gentleman's and his wife's simple yet beautiful home, Enya was playing quietly in the background. I felt as though I had walked into a dream.

I am struggling to describe how lovely this place is. Walls of mortar and large stones, an open plan kitchen, dining and living room, with huge wooden beams and archways separating the areas, interesting and wonderful artwork, shelves filled with books in a variety of languages, and many photos from happy pilgrims who, like me, have had the good fortune to find this special place.

Everything about this Refugio is perfect. The charge is 5 euros, a ridiculously small amount, and the least I've paid anywhere. Acacio and Orietta provide dinner and breakfast - there is nowhere else in this village to buy supplies or eat meals. We will eat at their table, with them and their friend who has arrived as I'm writing this. Dinner, breakfast, coffee and tea for just a donation to go towards keeping the refugio open all year round. I have no doubt that visitors are generous, feeling both fortunate and privileged that The Camino has brought them here.

Dinner almost ready so I'd best sign off for tonight. A quick thank you to Robert for your lovely comment on the last update (tomorrow I'll fill you in on the coffee situation here) and to Audrey, Judy and Marian for your emails - will reply soon.

Apologies for rabbiting on about my day today, but it unfolded in the most unexpectedly perfect way. I wish you could be here to see and feel this special place - you would forgive my rambling. I already know that as I leave tomorrow morning my gratitude will be tinged with sadness. What a day! J x