Day 12 - Burgos to Hontanas (32 km)

(Apologies if this update is cut short. Internet connection is intermittent.)

A peaceful day, welcome after yesterday - the 3+ hour walk into Burgos seems a while ago now. I was keen to get going again this morning, though not in a rush. I left my charming hotel about 8 and headed for a cafe near the cathedral for caffe con leche and a bite to keep me going. On the way I ran into Liv from Norway, who I'd had paella with last night. We'd been sitting side by side at separate tables, soon struck up a conversation and enjoyed dinner and a chat. So we had breakfast together this morning then each went on our way. Buen Camino.

Leaving Burgos, heading west (always west) toward Santiago de Compostela could not have been more unlike the approach from the east. Through the old city and leafy parks, within 30 minutes I was on a dirt road with crop fields either side.

After 10 km and passing through two small villages there was a gentle climb up to the Meseta, a plateau at about 1,100 meters. I had heard that the Meseta is one of the sections that people skip - due to limited time or other reasons - because some regard it as boring. Another perspective is this description in my guide book:

'Today we leave behind the built environment and enter the relative wilderness of the sublime Meseta. Two thirds of the path is by way of earth tracks across the peace and quiet of the crop fields that extend to the horizon, with the occasional shepherd and his flock to keep you company. There is little or no shade in the Meseta so protect your body from the relentless rays of the sun. This stage provides an opportunity to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of the few mediaeval villages left intact.'

And this is exactly as I found it. I think it's stark beauty is stunning. I walked 20 km through this terrain and enjoyed every minute (though my feet would not agree). Some photos included. I wonder what you will make of it.

I found myself reflecting on the past 12 days, and have some thoughts to share with you - though maybe in the next update as I may be pushing my luck with the Internet connection tonight.

My time on the Meseta ended, for today at least, with a short descent to the village of Hontanas, staying at the private Albergue, Santa Brigida. I have just enjoyed a wonderful dinner and conversation with the small group of pilgrims staying here - from Catalonia, Germany, Belgium, Romania and Canada. Lucky for me, they all speak English!

The Albergue is a mediaeval building on the outside, yet modern and stylish inside. Gemma, the bathrooms are of a design and to a standard that you'd be happy to present to your clients. I'll try to get a photo in the morning. In the meantime, photos I've included of the soaking pool for tired feet and even the clothes drying area give you a hint of the character of this Albergue - all for 6 euros per person in a large 6 bed dorm room (3 course dinner with wine for 9 euro). Each bed - and I'm on a top bunk tonight - has its own night light and power point for recharging phones, cameras and, of course, the occasional iPad! They've thought of everything a modern pilgrim needs.

I have so much more I could write about tonight - and I had thought to give you a technology and gear report too - but those will have to wait.

I'm so thankful that so far I'm in good shape and able to continue my journey to Santiago. Back to the Meseta tomorrow. I wonder what the day will bring.

Much love. J x