Day 16 - Terradillos to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos (27)

Today we united nations of pilgrims set out on the 27 km path to Hermanillos, where the route is mostly earthen track, the last third through remote bush country.

Again the day started with clear skies but an icy wind. My wardrobe of layers was perfect with 3 top layers of merino wool of various weights, and skins under my hiking skirt( see photo for glamorous ensemble) ready to adapt quickly as the temperature inevitably rose by mid morning. By lunchtime it was once again hot and dry. After more than two weeks walking westward, my left arm and leg is now a distinctly darker shade than the right.

It was the last walk the five of us would have together. Vaclav, Jens and Nina have decided to take a train to Leon tomorrow to save a day and avoid the urban approach into Leon. Though I suspect it will be similarly tough going as the approach to Burgos - and the way out just as soul-less - as long as I'm feeling fit I want to walk all of The Camino, even the ugly sections (of which there are few). The day in and out of Leon will be one to endure, but it's not until Day 18 and I'm prepared for it.

Irish Bernard wants to do the same so it will great to have company, the hard walk through the industrial part before we get to the old city will go much easier with a walking companion. I discovered today that Bernard is a psychiatrist so little wonder the 'interesting' conversations. I'm determined to make the most of the opportunity for some free therapy over the next dew days.

So we five set out this morning and enjoyed our mid morning coffee break at San Nicolas. Jens has dubbed our group El Camino con caffe con leche. At lunchtime, Nina, Jens and Vaclav took an alternative route to a larger town where the train will take them to Leon. Bernard will probably walk with me for a few more days, then he makes his way to Bilbao and back to Dublin. The other three are planning to go all the way to Santiago so perhaps I will catch up with them before then, as seems to happen regularly on The Camino. And no doubt I'll meet others along the way.

Well I took a few hours break in writing this update for dinner at the Casa el Curas (the house of the priests). Sure enough, there were 7 priests from the US staying there, though we had lively conversation with a couple from Bermuda. After 16 days I think I have met just one Australian. The Camino is much better known in Europe and North and South America.

It was a delightful dinner with great food and an hilarious singing waiter who reminded us all of Manuel in Fawlty Towers. Three courses including wine and Manuel's floor show for the special Pilgrims' menu price of 10 euro.

We'll return to the Casa for a quick breakfast tomorrow morning and have also bought supplies to ensure we don't go hungry - the first village is 17 kms away. Just a quick note on that score. I have never eaten so much and doubt I'll be able to look at let alone eat white bread again for the foreseeable future. You wouldn't have thought it possible to put on weight walking The Camino but I'm in with a chance. At very least, I doubt I'll have faded away. Still a while to go yet, so maybe the calorie burning will eventually overtake the calories!

Best get ready to call it a night. I know Allan will be recording the time of my blog so I mustn't stay too late as he will be concerned about my readiness for tomorrow's hike!

J x