Day 17 - Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos to Villarente (28.6 km)

After breakfast at the 'house of the priests', almost as entertaining as last night's dinner, we (still walking with Bernard the psychiatrist) set out on the 17 or so km to the nearest village, Reliegos.

The 7 American priests who had been staying at the Casa were visible in the distance but we soon passed them with their good wishes of Buen Camino, times 7. I don't recall that we saw another person until Reliegos where we were relieved to stop for lunch and the ritual shoes and socks off! The things you do over lunch on The Camino - e.g. close inspection of sweaty feet - would not be tolerated in polite company but are expected and discussed at length, with fervent interest and not a hint of self-consciousness.

So today was one of solid walking with few stops. Once again from noon the sun was unrelenting for the rest of the afternoon. Having had a late start we did not arrive in Villarente until 5pm.

As has happened so often on The Camino, my intuition led me to walk on to this town rather than stay at the larger 'regular' stop 5 kms earlier. I'm not sure Bernard was that keen but he said he'd trust me and then of course hold me responsible if it turned out to be a bad decision! I wasn't concerned.

The town itself is unremarkable which did not bode well. We passed the first of only two Albergues but I didn't like the look of it. I assured Bernard (based on no knowledge whatsoever) that the second Albergue would be the right one. And so it was (photo of garden included). We've just enjoyed yet another delicious pilgrims' menu dinner all inclusive for 10 euros. Writing this update, I'm sitting in a large typically Spanish style living area with beautiful tiled floors, terra-cotta and mustard colored walls, and thick wooden beams. Es perfect!

Tomorrow is a big day - the walk in to Leon which I'm looking forward to getting out of the way! We hope to arrive in time for early lunch and wander around the old city before tackling the way out. Not sure if Bernard will continue in or stop in Leon for a few days before flying back to London.

I was delighted to receive an email from Nina who left us yesterday - with Vaclev and Jens - to take the train to Leon. We will exchange texts from time to time and will catch up if we find we are in the same town.

Just a few messages before signing off:

Message for Pat who has been wishing me 'Ultreya' in signing off her emails. Pat, I confess I did not know its meaning but last night asked our hosts at the Casa. A Spanish word, derived from the original Latin, means 'onward' and was common use many hundreds of years ago by pilgrims to greet and encourage each other along the way. What a lovely message. Thanks Pat.

Great to receive the comments on yesterday's update and thank you to Felicity, Audrey, Allan and Pat for your lovely emails.

That's it for tonight. Hasta Luego mis amigos. Ultreya. J x