Day 21 - Santa Catalina to Acebo (29 km)

When I left Astorga yesterday afternoon it felt as though I was starting a new phase of my Camino - and so it is.

It began last night at Santa Catalina with a new cast of characters, and with the two gentlemen from Italia who joined us for dinner. Shortly after I arrived in the afternoon, after my teary walk from Astorga, I met two guys from Sao Paolo in Brazil - I'd say they are in their late 20s or early 30s. Richard and Iago are childhood friends. Richard lives in Sao Paolo where he produces tv commercials and Iago has been living in London for the past five years working as a teacher of Portuguese and a lifeguard at an indoor pool. Both used to be lawyers. Go figure! They had started their cycling Camino just two days earlier in Leon, with a plan to ride the 325 kms to Santiago.

Richard was finding it tough going. A gorgeous cuddly bear of a man with a kind face and a beaming smile, he patted his sizable tummy and told me 'at this moment I am not in my good form'. He told me he was finding the cycling difficult and wished that he was walking. But he said the hardest part was missing his dog! A kindred spirit. I told him I had two dogs at home, I missed them very much but they were being well cared for by a dear friend. Thanks Pat!

Next thing I knew Richard had his phone out proudly showing me photos of the most beautiful french bulldog, Mano (meaning brother). Mano in the garden, on the bed, at work with Richard. It seemed only right that I would return the favour, so out came the lovely locket with photos of precious Max and Zoe - thank you Pam. Richard was in heaven!

The others at our dinner table last night were Jurgen who had been in the group at dinner in Hospital, Penny from New Zealand who I'd chatted with briefly at the lovely Albergue in Hospital, and the two gentlemen from Italia (from Venezia I've since discovered). Despite the language barriers, thanks to Richard and Iago, and the many similarities of Portuguese, Spanish and Italian, we managed to communicate with each other and hospitaleros. I saw each of my dinner companions at various stages throughout the walk today and tonight we have all ended up in the same town again.

Camino companions were not the only change today. After leaving Santa Catalina the landscape also changed - and dramatically. I was heading for the mountains of Leon which could be seen in the near distance. Today I would climb rocky dirt paths through the pass of Irago to the highest point of The Camino at 1,550 metres though not the steepest climb as we were already at 800 metres at Astorga, then 1,000 at Santa Catalina.

It was not so steep it was a continuous climb and then suddenly down from the high point at Cruz de Ferro at 1,550 via a fairly tricky dirt path to my destination of Acebo at 1,200. The scenery here is stunning, a postcard at every turn. I don't think my photos do it justice but will try again tomorrow as the descent continues.

As has happened so often on The Camino, I knew I must be close to Acebo but it was nowhere in sight until I turned the final bend. And again The Camino has rewarded my efforts with this charming village, comfortable Albergue and, finally, the surprise sighting of Iago and Richard with whom I've just shared our evening meal. Richard was beaming his beautiful smile. He was so proud of his efforts successfully navigating the steep descent (particularly dangerous on a bike). They could have taken the nearby road but they are determined to ride on the pilgrims' path. I couldn't believe the difference compared to when I'd first encountered them less than 24 hours before. Then Richard explained that they'd discovered they had a few extra gears on their rented bikes!

There is more to tell about the characters who featured in my adventure today but the internet connection is intermittent and I'm tired.

A strange collection of photos today. I finally remembered to ask someone to photograph my shoes and socks so you can see the state I'm in each day. Just as well it hasn't rained yet as my shoes are so filled with dust I think I would end up with feet of clay.

Quick thanks to Audrey and Rosanne for emailing with your news and to Sally who has posted her first comment on the blog - my first and no doubt only reader from Hong Kong. Wonderful to hear from you Sally, will email in next few days.

Until tomorrow - Day 22. Can you believe it? J x

(ps. Apologies if any typos, no time to read through tonight!)