Day 22 - Acebo to Cacabelos (33 km)

Hola mis amigos

Apologies to those who like to read the latest update first thing in the morning. I am just back from dinner (yet another fabulous meal finished off by far too big piece of chocolate cake) while my iPad was recharging. It can be a bit tricky to keep the technology going in some of these places where power points are a bit scarce in the Albergues. But I think I now have enough power so here goes.

Tonight I thought I'd depart from the usual and write in response to some of your much appreciated comments and emails. As far as the day's walk goes, it's enough to say that it was wonderful. The landscape was varied - the mountain range in the morning reminding me of home - then passing through the charming small town of Molinaseca and the considerably larger one of Ponferrada, with its wonderful castle, Castilla de Los Templarios, a Knights Templar castle. In 12th century Ferdinand 2nd of Leon donated the city to the Knights Templar to protect the pilgrims on the Way of St James on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Needless to say that was short-lived but the castle still stands and it's impressive.

A further 15 kms or so on and I'm staying tonight in another picture perfect postcard town, Cacabelos. The Albergue Municipal is in the grounds of a Sanctuary built on the site of an old pilgrims hospital. I've included a photo.

Firstly, I know from your emails and comments that some of you were also sad - even teary - to say goodbye to Bernard. This is how the Camino goes. People come into our lives for a purpose, leave their mark on us (and we on them) and then they're gone as quickly as they came. I'm ok, so you'll be ok. I promise! I've moved on, and you will too - just give it some time. But seriously, your empathy in response to my Day 20 sadness is much appreciated. Bernard said he wanted to subscribe to my blog - if he's reading this, lord knows what his 'assessment' would be!

As for the two gentlemen of Venezia - well it appears they have quite a following, and not just on The Camino, with a number of you asking that I keep you informed of their progress. They're like a minor YouTube sensation. Well they've done it again and made it to the same sleeping place as me. And I got a big hug from the older one when they saw me tonight! In fact they are close by, in the 'stable' next door, and one of them is snoring melodiously as I write to you. When it comes to those two, I don't even mind the snoring, though I may feel differently if I can't get to sleep. As for the stables, that's the best analogy I can think of to describe the amazing pilgrim accommodation in the grounds of the Sanctuary. Don't get me wrong, it's very cosy and comfortable - little 2 bed rooms all around the perimeter of the grounds. And I have one all to myself tonight. Bliss! Will try to remember to take a photo in the morning.

And now to those gorgeous boys from Brazil. When I was having a quick breakfast at the Albergue this morning they were nowhere in sight but on leaving I felt sure I'd see them again as they would have to pass me on the path. And so they did, but it took a while. Some time well after 11, I was sitting in a cafe directly opposite the castle in Ponferrada, about to order the day's all important second breakfast, when I spied them outside. So they joined me and Penny from New Zealand who I'd come across when entering the town. Turns out they'd made a leisurely start leaving at 10am and, having cycled for about a third of the time that we'd walked, it was time for a break. It was great to see them for what I imagined would be the last time, now that they had their cycling legs. Strangely though, I managed to be in front of them twice more today, so we enjoyed a series of farewells and Buen Camino. The last was when they arrived here in Cacabelos around the same time as me, but decided that rather than keep pace with the walkers they should literally 'get on their bikes' and go another 7 or 8 kms to Villafranca Del Bierzo, which will be my first stop tomorrow. Though you'd have to think it unlikely I wouldn't be too surprised if I saw them again, and it would be a happy surprise for sure.

On the subject of cycling, congratulations Sue and Graham on your 55 km North Sydney to Homebush cycle. Well done. Bravo mis amigos.

An eclectic mix of photos tonight including one of me and a little furry friend I came across on the outskirts of Ponferrada. I asked the owner if I could pat her dog and take a photo, as I miss my little ones, and she insisted on taking a photo of the two of us. Dog lovers will understand. Though this dog doesn't look too sure - just as I imagine Zoe would react. In fact, I've taken quite a few photos of dogs along the way. Had I been more diligent there may have been a coffee table book in it - Dogs of The Camino. I'm confident there would be a market. I'd buy a copy and I'm sure Richard would as well. A missed opportunity!

Sorry but I'll have to wind things up as battery is low. Sally, I had planned to respond to your query on the wines but I think I may devote a whole update to the fabulous food and wine I've enjoyed so apologies for that, but I'll get to it.

Thank you to Audrey, Mary-Jane, Helen, Robert, Sue, Patricia, Pam, Rosanne and Gemma for your recent emails and comments. Sorry I haven't had time to respond to emails properly but don't stop sending them - it's always exciting to see new mail in the inbox.

A final and very big and heartfelt thank you to Allan for your encouraging and touching email and the amazing information and stats you are putting together on the Jenny's Camino project. You are spot on in all that you say. I am indeed in the final quarter of my journey to Santiago. I think I ticked over the 600 km mark today or must be very close. It sounds ridiculous to say but 200 km to go seems very little to me now, though I am mindful that every day is a new day and anything could happen. I still can't quite believe the good fortune I've had. So far, I feel perfectly fine with nothing close to an injury to report, though I have a couple of toenails that may not be with me when I (hopefully) walk into Santiago.

Best get to bed. I have some climbs coming up in the next few days so had better make the most of having a room to myself again to get a good night's sleep.

Hasta Luego. J x