Day 23 - Cacabelos to La Faba (32 km)

Hola mis amigos

This may be a relatively brief update as I'm still a bit low on power but will see how it lasts. Lots of people to share a few power points in the last few Albergues, so I like to be sure not to monopolise a scarce resource.

A wake up call today that my Camino has a long way to go and I'm not taking anything for granted. It was a tough day, though it started out gently enough. Wonderful night's sleep in the Sanctuary stables and I was up and ready to go by 8am with a few kilometres to walk before a breakfast stop. As Allan well knows from following my movements via Google earth, I am now in mountain country still in the Castilla-Leon region. The morning was very cold (3 wool layers on the top half - and gloves). Inevitably the temperature rose as the day progressed but no longer the punishing maximums of recent weeks, and plenty of shade. Even so, by lunchtime I was down to shorts and T-shirt and for much of the day the walking was fairly easy going.

Until the last 3 kms! When I started the day I had an idea I would get to the small village of Herrerias (at nearly 29 kms) and decide then whether to end the day there or walk another 3+ kms to La Faba, depending on how I was travelling.

The reason for my pondering is that I have a challenging climb ahead tomorrow as I move into Galicia. From Herrerias at 700 metres there is an 8.5 km climb on steep rocky paths up to the high point of O'Cebreiro at 1,300 metres, followed by a descent to 600 metres - mind the knees! Though I try to avoid steep climbing late in the day, for obvious reasons, I was also keen to make part of the ascent, if I was up to it, so it would not all be before me in the morning.

So I thought tonight I would try to give you some insight into how I work out where to aim for each day. Today was a good example of my approach.

You may have noticed the number 27 seems to pop up frequently in my daily distances. It's a bit spooky, though I start with the idea that I like to walk between 25 and 30 kms each day, depending on the terrain and how the towns / villages and accommodation pan out.

I don't look too far ahead on the maps, just a day or two to see what's coming up. I try to avoid ascents in the last hour or two - they are much better done in the cool of the morning when I'm fresh and full of energy. The other consideration is that I prefer to stop in small towns and villages, which are often 'out of sync' with the stages in the guidebook. Another advantage is you meet like-minded pilgrims who also prefer the charm, pace and sometimes remoteness of a small village. The larger towns have been wonderful as well and I aim to arrive there late morning, enjoy a leisurely lunch and a stroll and then move on. And, finally, sometimes I factor in whether the map tells me there is likely to be a private Casa or Albergue with single room if I'm feeling the need for some space and a good night's sleep.

With those considerations in mind I look about 25-30 kms ahead to see my options and then aim for a little more or less depending on the terrain and what that will mean for the following day.

And that's how I came to be struggling for 3 kilometres up a steep rocky path this afternoon having already walked 29. And Holy Camino, it was hard and I was dripping with sweat by the time I'd covered the distance. But that's also how I came to be spending the night in La Faba in a fabulous Albergue (photo included) on the side of a mountain in this remote village. Once again, The Camino has taken care of me. I'm glad I made the choice to walk up that final 3 kilometres - it will make a huge difference in the morning.

You're probably wondering about the two gentlemen from Venezia. Well they're not here tonight. When I passed them this morning (photo included) we agreed (which means looking at the map, pointing, nodding and smiling) that we may get to La Faba if all went well. As I made my way up that bloody hill - realising I hadn't had an afternoon this tough since Burgos - I thought of them and hoped that they had already called it a day. It looks as though they did - and I'm thankful for that.

Perhaps I won't see them again as I continue on my Camino and they on theirs. But you never know. I wouldn't underestimate them. Would love to hear that 'Ciao bella' at least one more time.

Tomorrow, over the mountain to windswept Galicia, where the weather is unpredictable and the unexpected is expected.

J x