Day 24 - La Faba to Triacastela (26 km)

Hola!

I'm pleased to report that the morning 5 km climb up to 1,300 metres was just fine. What a difference it makes tackling the ascents in the morning - and thanks to slightly earlier sunrise these days the scenery was breathtaking (though not easily captured on film).

Apart from cooler weather and more energy, the climb though twice as long as yesterday afternoon was nowhere near as steep. Happy to reward myself with a caffe con leche sitting in the sun on the mountain top.

As has been the case for each of my 24 days on The Camino, the sun shone in almost cloudless skies apart from a morning mist. The afternoon temperatures have been dropping these past few days and tonight, as I walked back from dinner just down the road from my Albergue, it was positively cold - first evening I've had to wear two layers.

At just over 26 kms to Triacastela I could have walked for another hour or so today but, according to the map, the next village with accommodation is more than 11 kms on. That's too far and there's no need to push on. I'm taking extra care not to do anything silly in this final stretch. I slowed down on the steep descent this afternoon and was grateful for Juan 1 and Juan 2, my faithful walking poles, easing the strain on my knees. The guide books are always banging on about more injuries being sustained going down than up - and with good reason as the rocky paths require 'brakes on' most of the way.

The day brought three highlights, as delightful as they were unexpected.

Firstly, the boys from Brazil made a reappearance! It was both a joy and something of a surprise to see them just half way up this morning's climb where they had stayed overnight in the tiny village of Laguna da Castilla. And here's me thinking they'd be miles ahead by now. They are cycling after all.

You may recall that I'd last seen Richard and Iago on Sunday afternoon (my time) in Cacabelos and they were riding on to Villafranca. It turns out that by Monday afternoon when I stopped in La Faba they were calling it a day just 2.5 kms up the mountain, they having taken the cycle path and I the walking path, our paths hadn't crossed.

And so it was that just before 9 this morning I came upon them as they were leaving their Albergue. We greeted each other with big smiles and open arms. I told them I was surprised to see them as I thought they would be well ahead. Richard then told me that he had nearly died on the nightmare climb up the mountain! He was low on water and had no food. At one point he had to lay down on the side of the road hallucinating and wondering what would become of them. I should point out here that at this particular part of our journey there was never more than 4 or 5 kms between villages. Also the prospect of starving is remote at best. I for one am certain that I have enough stored 'energy' to keep me going for a week. We all agreed it had been a very nasty ascent. Happy to have survived, we said our fond farewells again. Buen Camino. Surely it's not possible that I will catch up to boys from Brazil again? Never say never!

The second highlight today was just a chance meeting - not even a meeting really - as I was making my way up a steep and winding path. As I turned the final corner I looked up to see an old man and his German Shepherd, quiet and still beside him. I was taken aback by the countenance of this handsome dog - he seemed both regal and serene. As I made my way towards them, smiling, the old man spoke to me, in quick-fire Spanish. The only words I picked up were perro, amigo and peregrino. I'm sure he was telling me not to be frightened, his dog was a friend of the pilgrims. I asked if I could take a photo and he smiled in reply. The dog stayed quiet and still. I love this photo.

My third highlight came less than half an hour later. I was having a 'shoes and socks off' break at a table outside a small cafe in the middle of nowhere. A young man appeared - his backpack with scallop shell a giveaway that he was Santiago bound - and with him a young, lean husky. This young Austrian man, barely out of his teens I'd say, is walking The Camino with his dog. I'd heard that some pilgrims do this but he is the first I've encountered. Like me, they started in St Jean Pied de Port and intend to walk all the way to Santiago, camping in his tent mostly though occasionally staying in those Albergues that allow animals. I asked how the dog was going and he told me everything had been fine except for the week or so around the Meseta when it was too hot for his dog to walk far. With searing temperatures and little shade on offer, they would camp on the outskirts of villages during the day and walk through the cool of the night. They seemed to be having the time of their lives. I was speechless.

Sadly no sign of the two gentlemen from Venezia today. I doubt they will catch up to me but I have some time in Santiago so, as is the way of The Camino, there's every chance I'll see them again. Hope so.

Quick thanks for recent emails and comments - to Sara H, Julie, Gemma, Helen, Sue, Jill, Wendy and Ross, Felicity, Allan, Jude, Georgie, Bernard and, of course, Patricia on behalf of herself, Max and Zoe. Hope I haven't forgotten anyone. I love hearing from you all - I feel I have many 'peregrino amigos' walking with me.

J x