Day 25 - Tricastela to Barbadelo (29.3 km)

What an exquisite day! As I sat in the late afternoon sunshine in the garden of Casa Carmen I was thinking that I could not imagine how it could have been more perfect. And with that thought, something happened to show that The Camino had even more in store for me today. But I'll get to that later.

For almost the entire day my path followed the river Oribio through idyllic and tranquil country lanes, with the river providing a gentle soundtrack. As happens occasionally on The Camino, I'd had a choice to make today between a longer, rural path - via the picturesque town of Samos, the site of one of Spain's oldest Benedictine monasteries - or a shorter route by some 6 kms. The guidebook, while reassuring that those taking the shorter route would also be rewarded, recommended taking the time to follow the Samos path. And so I did. I will let the photos speak for themselves, though they could never do justice to the peace and natural beauty of my walk today.

After two hours I approached Samos, the wonderful monastery its centerpiece. Though the mist kept the morning temperatures low, I sat at an outside table to take my caffe con leche and admire the monastery across the river. As I was preparing to leave, a young couple - with their german shepherd cross - sat down at the next table. Although they had no packs, I wondered if they were walking The Camino with their dog - the memory of yesterday's encounter still fresh. The man told me that they were living in Samos now but that the woman and the dog had walked The Camino in April this year, from St Jean Pied de Port and beyond Santiago to Finisterre (perhaps I'll write more on Finisterre in a few days' time). Unlike the Austrian boy and his husky, the young woman had stayed in Albergues along the way, always able to find one that welcomed peregrino y perro - though the dog had to sleep outside (which seems fair enough, though would be a deal breaker for Max and Zoe!). When I went inside to pay for my caffe, the hospitalero told me 'that is the famous perro that walked The Camino'.

I said goodbye to the couple and the 'famous' Camino dog ... And then a surprise ... rain! The first in 25 days. In the past few days I had started to wonder if it would rain at all during my Camino. And I found I had mixed emotions about it. Perhaps I would not have the full pilgrim experience without having to walk on in spite of the rain. On the other hand, the clear sunny days were an unexpected blessing at this time of year (even the punishingly hot afternoons) and I wondered if I would react well when the rain came.

To my amazement, when I felt the first drops I was SO excited - sounds crazy, I know. I was elated. And I knew exactly what had to be done. Lucky to be in the outskirts of Samos still, I quickly found shelter. I knew just where my wet weather gear was - waterproof jacket, pants and pack cover - easily accessed, right at the top of my pack just as it had been for the previous 24 days. I had everything sorted and in no time I set off in the light rain (which continued for the next few hours).

I was delighted to find that my gear did the job perfectly. Rosanne, I thought of you - do you recall (how could you not?) me rifling through every pair of wet weather pants in Mountain Designs in Bondi Junction looking for the perfect pair that met all my criteria. Fully waterproof, lightweight, breathable, pockets, bottom side zips so could be taken on and off without removing shoes - and on sale! You were the model of patience. No luck that day but I stuck to my guns and a week later I found the perfect pair at Larry Adler, at half price. Well, it was worth it. As my friend from Azorfa would say, 'Es perfect'.

The day continued much as it began, though I walked for the next three hours without seeing another soul. This happens often on The Camino - and it can be both wonderful and disconcerting. You wonder if you've wandered off the The Camino (and I've been known to do that). But in the heavily wooded and winding path, it can feel as though you're alone when in fact there are others just a few bends behind or in front.

The walk was fairly gentle today - though when you're anywhere close to 30 kms, the last few hours are never easy. And there were just enough short, sharp ups and downs to keep me honest. I smiled remembering your email this morning, Mike, after you read of the grueling climb the day before. Many of you will know that Mike is a marathon runner and, in my view, a master of the psychology of endurance events. Also a fan of the 'one step, one step' approach, he reminded me that 'it's all flat, except for the hilly bits!'.

I'm going to skip along now as it's getting late here - and I am mindful this update will arrive late for those of you who have let me know you like to read it first thing. Sorry!

Following my pattern of staying in the smaller villages I passed through the town of Sarria and walked on another 4.5 kms to tonight's resting place - Casa Carmen in the tiny village of Barbadelo. I was drawn to the Casa purely by the name and intuition that it would be the right choice for me - and walked an extra kilometre and past several other Albergues to the far side of the village to arrive here. And it's wonderful in every way. (I'll add a second update today with photos of Casa Carmen).

After a warm welcome and a hot shower, I was sitting in the garden enjoying the afternoon sunshine and about to begin this update and thinking that I couldn't imagine how the day could have been any better. I heard a familiar voice call out. 'I can't believe it's you! I'm so happy to see you.'. It was Nina whom I'd farewelled together with Vaclav and Jens on the day Bernard and I walked to Leon.

And that's why I'm so late in writing to you tonight. I've just enjoyed a lovely dinner with Nina and Erica and Jonathan, a Canadian couple I met yesterday who also had the good fortune to find their way to Casa Carmen. As Nina said, 'this is a magical place'.

Tomorrow is Day 26. Some time in the late morning I will be just 100 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela. These final days to Santiago may be quite different from the days so far - I'll tell you more tomorrow.

Hasta Luego - until then. J x